Into wine country

Blue skies greeted us as we were leaving and we made sure that we had left space in our panniers to store the dinner provisions we would buy later in the day at Brannes.

The river was high as we cycled out of Langon and we were aware that there were flood warnings for some of the rivers we need to cross in coming days.  We were soon climbing on quiet country roads and as we crested the first hill, we had a lovely view back to Langon. 

Soon after we passed our first vineyard and there were lots of signs to various chateaus.  The undulating route was a change from the gradual but steady climbs of previous days and we enjoyed cycling through little towns and along quiet roads.

After a quick morning tea stop, we picked up another rail trail and passed the old station of Frontenac, now fenced off but still clearly displaying full station facilities.  Unfortunately, we were too late for lunch when we reached Brannes, with one restaurant closed and the other no longer serving lunch.  As St Emilion had only one small supermarket, we stocked up at the large Carrefour with dinner provisions and enough for a picnic lunch which we enjoyed in the sun on the banks of the river. 

The next 10kms into St Emilion was lovely, firstly along the river and then through the vineyards. We had one final climb to our accommodation, an old stone terrace with views across the rooftops and towards the bell tower.

After putting on a load of washing we ventured out to wander through the medieval town with its maze of narrow, cobbled streets, lined with restaurants and wine shops.  The town is a UNESCO World Heritage site with lots of beautiful stone buildings and some amazing monuments.  

The bell tower standing atop of the monolith church we would visit tomorrow, was once a beacon for pilgrims, and clearly visible for miles around. The Tour du Roy, or Kings Tower, an intact romanesque keep situated on a rocky massif could also be seen high above the town.  The Great Wall, all that remains of a 12th century Dominican monastery stood in all its grandeur at the end of a vineyard.