And the rains came


Friday 17th March

Hokitika - Okarito

The forecast rains fell during the night and at times the wind was ferocious though it was reasonably calm when we awoke.

Simon left around 8:30 to walk to the Hokitika airport some 1.5kms from our accommodation. There were multiple rental companies represented at the tiny airport with individual staff taking responsibility for servicing a few companies.

The bikes fitted in the back of our little Kia hatchback with front and rear wheels removed.  And there was room enough for our panniers on top.

We drove the couple of kilometres into town for an easy morning exploring the shops. Hokitika is considered the jade capital of New Zealand, with the greenstone pounama found in the Aruhura river which flows into the sea just north of Hokitika.  We were keen to take home a piece of jewellry as a souvenir, and enjoyed wandering through the galleries and jade shops in search of the perfect piece.  I found some lovely earrings in a family-run business to match a dress I've bought for a wedding soon after our return.  

We had coffee at the Kitchen, a nice cafe located in the midst of the shopping area and decided to return for their seafood chowder for lunch.  It was really good - but servings were small and we could have had a second helping.

The rain had held off most of the morning but it was drizzling as we stopped at the supermarket to stock up on supplies for dinner.  It was raining a little heavier as we left town and started to pour as we headed to Hokitika gorge.  Photos of the gorge show the water as a stunning deep blue. As a result of the overnight rain, we were treated to a grey, swirling torrent of water.  

There were a few people in the parking lot and some of them made it as far to the second suspension bridge.  But we completed the circuit without seeing anyone.  It was a good test of our cycling rain gear which stood up well.

Back in the car, the rain became torrential and it continued with the occasional deluge most of the way to Okarito.  We stopped briefly in Ross for a toilet break, which was also the end of the Wilderness trail that we had originally planned to cycle that day before we decided to hire a car.  A wise decision indeed.  The weather forecast indicated up to 14mm of rain an hour and at times Simon had to drive at 50kms/hour due to the poor visibility.  

We made it safely to Orakito and headed down to the beach which was as turbulent as the rivers we had passed en route.  The Orakito lagoon was a little more protected and very tranquil. The largest unmodified wetland in New Zealand, it was surrounded by rainforest and cloud covered mountains.  

There was an old boat house which had been converted to an information centre with boards showing the local history.  It was once a gold mining town and the third largest port on the west coast with boats coming from South Australia bringing miners in search of gold which was found on the beaches, washed down through the rivers.  

The rain seemed to have passed and we arrived at our Airbnb around 6pm ready to settle in and cook dinner, accompanied by another good Central Otago pinot noir.