Learning about the Basque Country 

After viewing the hills around Bilbao from the top of the funicular yesterday, it was a relief to catch a train over the first hill.  The station assistant was most helpful as we bought a Barik card that can also be used for public transport in San Sebastián.  Interestingly, one card can be used to service multiple people.  

Alighting at Lezama station, we headed straight to a café for our second coffee and some pastries, including a specialty, butter bun, which was a brioche filled with a cream made from butter and eggs.  The type of pastry you can eat before a multi-hill cycle. 

The first hill started soon out of town and was rapidly followed by the second hill.  There were heaps of cyclists on road bikes heading in both directions.  Some 4kms later we reached the top and started the beautiful ride down.  

On reaching Guernica, we were delighted to find a band playing outside one of the taverns.  We watched for a while before they moved onto their next location.  We had hoped for an early check in to our apartment following our request, but the code to enter didn’t work so we opted for lunch.  We found a bar doing 6 pinxtos for 12 euros which gave us an opportunity to try a range of the delicious snacks which were surprisingly filling.

Once we had the bikes safely stored in the apartment, we set off to explore Guernica, starting with the Peace Museum.  On April 26 1937, Guernica was bombed by the German and Italian forces during the Spanish Civil war.  Our guide yesterday had explained that the bombing was in support of General Franco and targeted the sacred Tree of Guernica which Spanish royals visited to swear an oath to uphold the local laws and customs of the Basque region, demonstrating their commitment to the region’s autonomy.  We made sure to see this tree as part of our walk round Guernica. 

The Peace Museum was free on Saturdays and we enjoyed the English videos that provided insights into the Basque history and culture.  As we exited the museum, another musical performance was underway and we ventured down to enjoy the last set by Aurora Ta Piti which was greeted with rapturous applause by the seated audience.  

Next stop was the Park of the Peoples of Europe with its famous sculptures which are symbolic of Guernica being a city of peace. These included Henry Moore’s sculpture “Large figure in a shelter”  stood nearby  “Gure Aitaren Etxea” (our Father’s house) by Eduardo Chillida which were created to commemorate the air raid on Guernica.

Guernica is also famous for its mural of the 1937 painting by Picasso which is exhibited in Madrid, and and a life-size reproduction of the original displayed on a wall in Guernica.  

Our final stop was Lidl, to stock up on provisions for dinner and breakfast so we could enjoy a quiet night in and leisurely start.

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