The ridge route

Despite heavy rain overnight, the morning was overcast but the skies were clearing as we left Getaria.  The cycling was quick along the main road that hugged the coast but the climbing started soon after Zarautz and we could see back along the coast to Getaria.  We descended past vineyards and along the river into Orio, where we stopped for a morning coffee and pxintos to sustain us on our next stage.

 The climb started soon out of town and we passed more Camino hikers, adding to the large numbers we had seen approaching Zarautz.  The ascent was steady and largely manageable for most of the 5kms of climbing, except for a super steep pinch that left as both gasping and in need of a rest. 

 The descent offered views along the coast and across the valleys though a cold wind had picked up, and I was glad I had redressed in all my layers.

A bike path took us almost all the way into our Airbnb in San Sebastián and we took the advice of the host, and went to Casa Javier, a nearby restaurant serving a menu del dia.  We had booked a walking tour for 4pm so had just enough time to hang our washing out before heading to the meeting point.

The guide was a local lad with a clear passion for his Basque heritage and it was an interesting two hours as we explored some of the local sites and learnt a lot about the history of San Sebastián, including its status as a tourist destination for the wealthy. We noted the bullet holes in the Hotel Maria Cristina inflicted during the start of the Spanish Civil war and admired the Metereologic Temple located in Gipuzkoa Square that also boasted a beautiful sakura tree, unfortunately no longer in flower. 

The beach of La Concha was just visible at high tide and ringed by beautiful railings, each made up of five identical panels and constructed in 1910.  We could see across to Santa Clara island which merged into the nearby Mont Urgull that was topped by a large hotel and amusement park.  Nearby was the old casino, now the Town Hall and the port. We entered the old town and viewed two of the three churches that had survived the Napoleonic war.  

We lingered in the old town after the tour for a pinxtos and wine but neither were very good and we decided to find something a little closer to home. Bar Alex delivered both, though at a much higher price than we had paid previously.  San Sebastián is an expensive place to visit.  

 Prev entry - Home - Next entry