Hengchun to Daren

Shimen Ancient Battlefield

It was already warm when G, Si and I left a little after 9am. Si and I had been up early sorting washing, purifying water and other chores. We finally finished our fourth bag of granola that we had bought from home, so had purchased some slightly, sweeter and less substantial granola from the supermarket the night before.

On our way out of town we passed through more of the well preserved city walls.  We were soon in the countryside with fields of onions and the occasional dragon fruit plantation. We passed temples and grand statues, with an artillery range in the distance.  We could hear the firing of some form of large artillery and see smoke where it landed, but couldn’t see what was firing.

We soon came to the source of the noise, which was the Joint Operations Training Base Command which is used as a firing range and for military field combat training by all branches of Taiwan’s military.  There were a few tanks scattered around the entrance, and a chess board with large military figurines representing the chess pieces. 

We continued along a quiet road, edged with bougainvillea and every so often someone would pass us, in a scooter or car, wave, call out to us and give us a big thumbs up.  We stopped for quick break at the 7-11 determined to pace ourselves and not overheat given the long climb ahead.

We stopped at the Shimen Ancient Battlefield (known as Macacukes in the local Paiwan language). It was here that the indigenous people of Mudan and Gao’s villages resisted the invasion of the Japanese army in 1874, with the conflict eventually ending in a truce. There were interesting art images along the road that depicted some of the activities and culture of the local people.

The road became steeper and we passed under a Paiwan-style arch as we entered Kapanan (Shihmen) Village, just before reaching the Mudan Reservoir. The road continued to climb and just before we reached the crest, we passed a lifelike rendition of an ox pulling a cart.

The route became more undulating and we passed other sculptures paying homage to the indigenous tribes.  We stopped for lunch in Mudan township at a little place that offered omelette rice and dumplings. It was very busy with lots of people picking up takeaway.  My order of signature omelette rice finally arrived but then we were told that the other orders were not available - it seems they had run out of rice.  Simon ordered some noodles whilst G had dumplings. The meals were cheap and tasty but it was a long lunch break.

Still, it meant that we were well rested as we tackled the next 20 kilometres of hills.  Whilst undulating, the hills weren’t steep and it was pleasant riding until we reached the clouds and it became damp and wet and we lost the view completely.  At times visibility was very poor and I was thankful that the road was so quiet, although there were a surprising number of buses.

We reached the top, but it was too cold and damp to linger.  Jonno messaged to say he checked in and we whizzed down the mountain making good time and emerged from the clouds onto dry roads and clear views.  The accommodation was warm and comfortable and we sat outside for afternoon tea.

Si and I walked the few hundred metres to the beach, which might have been more appealing under blue skies.  Despite the clouds, there were lovely views down the coastline.  We appreciated the rope, strategically placed to help you climb back to the track.

We had been warned of the limited food options for dinner and the one restaurant closed at 7:30 which meant an early dinner.  Unfortunately the recommended restaurant was closed and the only place open was a takeaway that offered a fried chicken dinner with various sides.  We each opted for the chicken set with some sweet potatoes and French fries which we took back to our accommodation to eat on the little verandah.  The chicken was ok but the other components of the set were unidentifiable and didn’t get eaten.  We finished off with a selection of ice creams from the 7-11. 

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