Taipei to Caotun

An unexpected parade

We obeyed all the check out instructions for the AirBnB - with our keys on the table and our bag in the lobby photographed and images sent.  It was our first day on the bikes, but we managed to pack and get moving faster than I planned, and we even had time for a family photo, using an appropriately placed box as a stand for the tripod.  A car almost took it out, just narrowly missing it. It was a cold, windy morning as we cycled to Wanhua station and the streets were deserted at 8:30am on a Sunday.

Once at the station, we bought tickets for the bicycles and confirmed that we could use our Easypasses for the train journey.  J &G went off in search of snacks for the 3.5 hour train journey.  15 minutes before the train was due, I took my bike down to the platform to scout the route.  It was all very straightforward with room for two bikes in the elevator but soon the train was only minutes away and the kids still hadn’t appeared.  Simon arrived first and then the kids close behind, Apparently the people ahead of them at the 7-11 had just done the world’s largest convenience store shop, so they had waited ages to pay.

The guard advised us to move to the front of the train and it soon arrived.  We squeezed in with our bikes and could see the spaces for them, but there was no way we could fit them in.  We propped ourselves and our bikes where we could and waited for the train to empty.  We slowly gained space and access to the bike spots, and it was over 90 minutes before we were all settled with bikes properly parked.  G and I amused two Taiwanese girls opposite us as we tried and failed to unwrap the nigiris Jonno had purchased. 

Finally, we arrived at Taichung and wheeled our bikes off the train and through the concourse - so much easier than having to haul bikes in bags. The weather was much warmer, and we made sure to put sunscreen on before heading off to Cantou, via a little noodle shop I’d found.  There were lots of scooters parked out front, and we finally squeezed our bikes in.  G and I had knife cut noodle soup (with chunky wide noodles) whilst Si and Jonno tried the dumplings and potstickers and we all shared some shallot pancakes. We discussed options for stops in the afternoon with a choice between Wufeng Lin Family Garden or the 921 Earthquake Museum.  We agreed to meet near the turnoff to the Garden and make a decision.

Jonno was soon speeding off into the distance, though we caught up to him a few times waiting for traffic lights.  At least you know how long you’re waiting for, with the countdown on at least one, if not more road crossings. We all convened as planned and agreed to visit the Garden.  The Wufeng Lin family is one of Taiwan’s five major families.  The compound looked interesting - though more focused on buildings than gardens.  The kids were more interested in visiting the Earthquake Museum, so after a quick look at the public spaces, we continued on. 

At 1:47am on 21 September 1999, Taiwan experienced one of its worst natural disasters - a 7.3 magnitude earthquake.The 921 earthquake museum conserved the damage caused by the earthquake, including collapsed school buildings, fault rupture and elevation of riverbank.  The exhibition hall outlined the different impacts of earthquakes including a strong focus on tsunamis. The preserved school ruins were particularly interesting.  We were contemplating next steps when a lady came out and offered us tickets to the Earthquake Experience theatre.  It seemed rude to refuse, so we wandered through the Image gallery and then headed to the Earthqucke Experience Theatre, where we could sit on the floor or a little couch and experience what an actual earth quake would feel like,  It was an interesting experience and we wondered how we would cope in Australia if we were to have a devastating earthquake.

Back on the bikes, it wasn’t long before we lost Jonno.  I was a little anxious as he had no charge on his phone and so had memorised the route - but was sure he had enough common sense to find his way,  I was joined by an American man who cycled along me for a couple of kilometres, telling me how he had lived in Asia for 26 years, 16 of them in Taiwan, where he was teaching at a nearby school.  We chatted about his family and possible routes to Sun Moon Lake before he left us and sped off into the distance. 

We were now at the outskirts of Cantou and stuck to the main road, as traffic as flowing well. We missed the hotel, and it was only that Jonno called after us, that we spotted it.  They let us leave our bikes in the lobby and the room was large and comfortable. After showering, I ducked across the road for a couple of beers whilst everyone showered and we waited for the washing to finish.

I found an interesting looking restaurant just 5 minutes walk away, and it turned out to be a good choice. Simon and Jonno had pork noodles whilst G had pork seafood and tofu and I ordered chicken and baked rice.  We enjoyed some endamame, fungi and radish then our meals arrived in the bowls, with a broth, a savoury junket-type dish with mushrooms and our main course. The food was delicious and very filling, and we washed it dow with some iced drinks - no beer available.

As we left the restaurant, we heard drumming and tried to find the source.  We turned a corner and walked into a parade, with lots of lights, lanterns and crowds of people walking behind banners.  There were lots of dragons, fancy dress, including people wearing watermelon hats on their heads, kids on roller skates and people dancing and waving.  We were quite the centre of attention, with lots of people waving at us - probably the only westerners in town. 

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