The double helix staircase

With an excellent boulangerie so close by, we made sure to stock up on some enormous pastries for morning tea before heading out of Blois on a couple of quiet roads before picking up the cycle path.  It was a much easier route out of town with none of the hills we had struggled up on our arrival.  

We stayed on the cycle route all the way to the entrance to Chambord Chateau, the largest chateau in the Loire and originally designed as a hunting lodge. There were only a couple of bikes in the parking area and the ticket queue moved quickly.  However, there was a queue to enter the Chateau together with a sign forbidding entry with a number of articles, including knives.  Simon was carrying his handlebar bag with three knives (a pen knife and two leathermen) and it was a long walk back to the bike parking area. 

The security guards checked our bags and ran the metal detector randomly over some of them.  Georgie, Graham and I were cleared to enter.  Whilst the security guard requested to look in Simon’s daypack, I got him to pass me his handlebar bag which had been subject to a visual check but not that of the metal detector.  The backpack was cleared to enter and we were allowed into the locker area to deposit bags including knives. It was still reasonably quiet inside and we headed to the terraces via the 16th century double helix staircase. Located in the heart of the chateau it allows visitors to ascend and descend at the same time without encountering each other on the steps. 

Whilst it appears to be a single structure, it is composed of two separate spiral ramps that intertwine and the carved openings allow people to see each other whilst moving between the different levels.  The staircase is flanked by four spacious vestibules, each ending in a massive corner tower, with the structure representing a Greek cross. The architect of the stair case is unknown, but it is speculated that it may have been the inspiration of Leonardo Da Vinci.  

The terraces offered a 360 degree view of the formal gardens, river and parkland. Around us towered stair turrets, chimney stacks and dormer windows, with the double helix staircase rising in the centre, crowned by its lantern tower adorned with the fleur-de-lis, the symbol of French kings.  

We made our way down the floors, stopping on the third floor to admire the work of Kim En Joong and his stained glass exhibition, Colours of the Invisible.  The crowds had built up whilst we were on the terraces and the small rooms were quite busy.  We visited a few of the rooms, noting that many were empty, and had a look at Francis 1’s living quarters and the kitchens. We finished with a video that explained the history of the chateau, including its frequent changes in ownership and many years of improvements before work was completed and ownership passed to the French state in 1930.

Our cycle route took us through part of the estate and we had a great view back to the Chateau which provided a brilliant backdrop for photos. The path continued along some of the 32 km wall that surrounds the estate before we reached the exit gate.  

We had booked lunch at La Chenterelle as a thank you to Georgie and Graham for the use of their car in England.  Lunch turned out to be absolutely amazing.  We had the 30 Euro menu, which consisted of two appetisers, entrée, main, cheese plate and dessert. We tried most of the dishes on the menu –  my entrée of bluefin tuna in two textures with avocado and creamy soy icecream was as delicious as it looked. 

It was a struggle to get back on the bikes and fortunately it was a pleasant ride along the Loire to Beaugency.  After enjoying a cup of tea in the sun at our accommodation, we walked through the old town to buy breakfast supplies. On the way back we detoured to see the Caesar Tower, an 11th century keep that is one of the oldest remaining examples of Roman style defences. In front of the Tower was a statue of Joan of Arc.

The nearby Chateau was built by one of Jean of Arc’s comrades, Jean Dunois in the 15th century. Once the home of Kings Louis XI and Francois 1, it is now a digital art centre.  The Abbey of Notre Dame, built at the end of the 12th century, was the location of the annulment of the marriage of Eleanor of Aquitaine to King Louis VII, allowing her to marry the English King Henry II.

After such a wonderful lunch, dinner consisted of crisps, strawberries and the enormous pastries that we hadn’t eaten for morning tea. 

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