The Village of the Roses

Two quick stops to buy bread, pastries and lunch supplies and we were on our way out of Loches on a route that ran parallel to our way in the day before.  We picked up a lovely cycle path and meandered through quiet back roads to Chedigny – the village of the Roses, and the first village in France to be declared a “remarkable garden”.

Some 1000 rose bushes have been planted throughout the village together with 1500 bulbs and more than 3000 perennials and grasses.  It was the idea of a former mayor, Pierre Loualt, who loved roses and began planting climbing roses by removing paving stones from the pathways. Roses now adorn many of the houses and are dated with their year of planting.

After exploring the village streets and the old wash house, we had a quick look at the Eglise Saint-Oierre-Es-Liens and then visited the Jardin de Cure – the priest’s garden which displayed perennial and annual plants as well as medicinal and aromatic shrubs.  We then enjoyed a late morning coffee and delicious pastries in the sunny square. 

It was a steep climb out of the town and we passed a random horse sculpture in a field, before reaching the village of Francueil, with its 11th century church and little fountain supported by stone squirrels.  

Next stop was the Chateau de Chenonceau where we parked the bikes, confident they would be safe amongst the many other bikes already attached to the railings before finding some picnic benches for lunch.  

Built on the River Cher in the 16th century, the chateau is known as the Ladies Chateau, as it was designed and owned exclusively by women. It was fascinating to explore the rooms and learn more about the women and intrigue linked to the history of the Chateau.  

Katherine Briconnet, first women involved, was recognised as the architect of the Chateau in the early 1500s. As settlement of a debt in 1535, Chenonceau became part of crown lands, and King Henry II offered it to his mistress Diane de Poitiers. As she took full possession, it was removed from Crown ownership which later saved it from the French Revolution. Diane de Poitiers created the gardens and the famous bridge that makes the chateau so stunning.

In 1559, Queen Catherine of Medeci, widow of Henry II, deposed Diane de Poitiers and installed her son as owner, whilst she managed the Kingdom of France from her study.  She further enhanced the gardens and raised the height of the gallery to host the court and was renowned for her parties. 

Her daughter-in-law, Louise de Lorraine later moved into the chateau on the death of her husband King Henry III. The death of Louise de Lorraine marked the end of the royal presence at Chenonceau.

The other highlight of the Chateau was the amazing flower arrangements that adorned many of the rooms.  Each was stunning and unique, with a glorious array of blooms.  

We made our way back through the gardens, including Diane’s garden, where the layout of the flowerbeds has remained unchanged since its creation.  The Russell Page garden, with its animal sculptures only opened in 2018 and was inspired by newly discovered documents relating to the work of this landscape gardener. Our final stop was the vegetable and flower garden which grows flowers for use in the floral arrangements in the Chateau.

It was another 12kms into Amboise and we struggled a little into the headwind.  It was a relief to arrive in town and settle into our accommodation.  Simon and Graham headed out to the supermarket to pick up dinner and breakfast supplies and we enjoyed another delicious Cridland dinner. 

Prev entry - Home - Next entry