Free treats 

It was overcast as we headed to the station with a brief detour via the patisserie for one last purchase of French bread and pastries. Trying to quickly board the train with our bikes and gear was challenging given the three steps up to the vestibule, but there was another couple travelling with bikes so between us we got all the bikes and bags loaded.  

There was a large space for wheelchairs that was empty and could accommodate us and our multitude of bags.  The train terminated at Basel so we thought we might have a little time to disembark but people were waiting to board.  Again we had help with our bags and bikes and were quickly on the platform.  

We made our way out of the bustling area around Basel station and along a marked cycle path through the city until we reached the Rhine River. There we picked up a dedicated cycle path that followed the banks of the Rhine and then through a business park. The route was quite industrialised and not very scenic.  

Simon had identified a park and toilets at Rheinfelden for our morning tea stop and we hoped to beat the approaching rain.  Fortunately, there was a large shelter and we could make our coffee under cover, after righting one of the benches that had been turned side on to create the perimeter of a football pitch.

It was drizzling on and off as we cycled through the grounds of Beuggen Castle, now a hotel and conference centre. From there we were on a path that largely followed the main road through to the town of Bad Sackingen.  Given the quality of the cycle routes we had enjoyed to date, I expressed my disappointment to Simon who advised that we had taken a detour due to path closures. 

The recurring drizzle meant that a picnic lunch was not appealing and we stopped at Viet Lotus. A man exited the restaurant as we were locking our bikes and assured us the restaurant was very good.  The noodles were hot and plentiful but our attempts to order spring rolls failed as we ended up with prawn crackers.

By the time we left the restaurant, the rain had set in and we quickly decided that a one minute cycle to the station and a 15 minute train ride was a much better option than cycling 26kms in pouring rain.  We only had to wait about 15 minutes for a train to Waldshut, and again passengers helped us with bags and bikes.  There was already a cyclist in the carriage and we manoeuvred the bikes to fit them all in, with him insisting that he was getting off before us. Turned out we were only on the train for one stop so we were getting off first, which required us to re-manoeuvre the three bikes so we could make a timely exit.  

The rain had stopped and after checking into our accommodation and enjoying a restorative cup of tea, we headed out to walk through the old town.  The Grenzganger sculpture was particularly interesting, designed to embody the conflict between persistence and progress, represented by his belly which is bloated from swallowing problems and then he moves on.  

Three sculptures of saints lined the entrance to the Upper Gate, including St Sebastian with an arrow, St Rochester, as a pilgrim with a shell and St Nepomuk with a palm branch and halo.  The fourth sculpture was of the Virgin Mary.  

Upon entering the square we stopped at a bakery and asked the server in our rudimentary German if they were open the following day as it was a public holiday.   When she said no, we asked for a brownie and a piece of slice that we thought would keep well overnight.  She then refused to take payment and insisted we take them for free.  A nice welcome to Germany.

We stocked up on other supplies for the public holiday, on the assumption that nothing would be open which turned out to be a wise decision.  Given that we were located above a bar, we thought we should stop in for a beer.  Smoking in bars is legal in Germany and the place smelt of smoke so we sat as close to the door as possible.  We asked the bar lady to recommend a beer, which turned out to be slightly sweet but refreshing. 

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