The Maid of Orleans

It was a glorious morning as we headed into the local markets to stock up on supplies for the next two days.  The stalls radiated from the square through the side streets and we wandered them all before making our purchases. The cheese lady offered us a taste of the cheese we were proposing to buy, so we knew it was good.  The young assistant at the fruit and vegetable stand was very patient as I asked for the different produce in French before he advised us the total cost in perfect English.  We also selected some sausages and pate.  

We wandered the town in search of a bottle recycling bin before seeking guidance from a local café who pointed us out of town – not far from where we were staying.  Recycling sorted, we made the most of the sunny courtyard with a second coffee/tea before finally departing.  

We were soon back on the river, with a view of the bridge, the longest over the Loire with its 26 stone arches.  First built in the 11th century, the toll charged to cross the bridge contributed to the wealth of Beaugency.  

The cycle path continued along the Loire, past vineyards and open farmland.  We stopped to view the Cross of Micy, built from the stones of a former abbey. We had arranged an early check in and enjoyed our picnic lunch in the sunny courtyard before heading out to explore Orleans.  

The Place du Martroi was bustling with people and an equestrian statue of Jean of Arc took pride of place in the centre of the square.  We later saw another sculpture in front of Hotel Groslot.  Joan of Arc is celebrated in Orleans due to her role in liberating the town from the British.  Her memory is represented in the names of streets, statues, stained glass and a dedicated festival, that was in its final days when we arrived.  

Born in 1412, Joan of Arc grew up in the village of Domremy during the Hundred Years War between the Kingdom of France, the English and the Burgundians.  Aged 13, Joan heard a voice from God telling her to help the Kingdom of France and free it from oppression.  The voice told her to meet with Charles VII, lift the siege of Orleans and conduct the king to Reims to have him crowned, which she dutifully did, despite all obstacles. Charles VII then led the campaign to retake Paris, during which Joan of Arc was captured and then executed in 1431. We watched a video of these events the next day at the Maison de Jeanne d’Arc.  

Colourful timber framed houses lined the streets and the Cathedrale Sainte-Croix was most impressive.  We later visited the Cathedrale which told the story of Joan of Arc through a series of stained glass windows.  

We walked through the Jardin de la Charpenterie with its view down to the Loire.  We joined the river path at quai du Chatellerault and continued around to Église St Aignan dedicated to an earlier hero of Orleans, Anianus, a 5th century bishop who persuaded Attila the Hun not to sack the city, his fame now overshadowed by that of Joan of Arc.

Colourful mosiacs could be found on street corners around the city. Some are the work of artist MifaMosa, who had fun creating mosaics that represent the street names.  Other mosaics of famous characters were created by the Tag Lady, and we had fun looking for them.  

Works by Johan Creton also dotted the city, including The Bat in Cathedral Square, much loved by kids who climb the steps to stand on top.  

It was a lovely evening, and we made the most of it, trying a few different wines and a charcuterie board for dinner at La Chopine Wine Bar. 

Sunday 11 May

A late start and leisurely breakfast of croissants and coffee.  Georgie and Graham also bought a variety of pastries that we enjoyed for both lunch and dinner.  

We made just one outing, to visit Joan of Arc’s house and watch the video which provided more detail about her life, battles and final demise.  Then we did very little for the afternoon – a real rest day for once.  Georgie cooked up a delicious dinner from the market produce which was accompanied by a particularly nice bottle of Chablis. 

Prev entry - Home - Next entry