The Gardens of Villandry

It was a wet morning, so we had a leisurely start and Graham went out to source pastries for a late brunch whilst we waited for the rain to pass.  It was still drizzling when we set off to Villandry around 12:30 but the sky was definitely looking brighter as we left Tours. The rain stopped as we made our way along the La Loire a Velo cycle path through fields of barley and maize.

The path continued along the Cher River through the pretty town of Savonnieres and onto Villandry.  We left the bikes parked under cover, and after a picnic lunch and quick detour for pastries we made our way to the Villandry Chateau. We opted for the garden only ticket, and after stowing our pannier in the lockers, took the stairs up to the viewing point with its stunning outlook over the entire Renaissance-style garden.  The Love Garden was immediately below us and featured four box beds, symbolising the four stages of love: tender, passionate, flighty and tragic. Nearby was the Garden of the Crosses with three different crosses – Maltese, Languedoc and Basque.  

Above us was the forest and we walked towards the Pavillon de l’Audience and the greenhouses, before viewing the Water Garden, with its fountains and large pool in the shape of a Louis XV mirror.

The Sun garden was quite a contrast with its different changes and colours.  The Cloud Chamber was planted in shades of blue and white, whilst the Sun chamber was more vibrant with orange and yellow plantings around a star shaped pond.  

The Herb gardens were filled with different medicinal plants and interestingly shaped trees.  Most impressive was the Ornamental kitchen garden with its raised beds, identical in size but planted in different colours to create the illusion of a chequerboard. Planted twice a year, in spring and summer, the kitchen garden includes around 40 species which are rearranged with each planting. 

A team of 10 gardeners work full time to maintain the gardens, with some 115,000 flowering and vegetable plants planted every year.

The chateau was built in the 16th century on the remains of a fortress and the keep from the 12th century still remains. It was restored in the early 20th century by Joachim Carvallo and his American wife, both scientists, and they also redesigned the gardens in the style that had existed in the 16th century. Their great-grandson now runs the estate.    

It took just over an hour to cycle back, and as we passed through Savonnieres, one of the traditional boats was taking a group down the river.  

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